Bistro Style Oven Roasted Mussels

Crank oven to 500

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds fresh mussels in the shell, or clams.
  • 4 cloves garlic chopped
  • 1/2 cup parsley chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup white wine
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/2 C kalamata olives
  • 1/2 C diced linguica sausage, or any cooked sausage you prefer.
  • Four chopped Roma tomatoes
  • 2T worchestershire

Option:

  • Omit Roma tomatoes for a white sauce.
  • Frites as an accompaniment.

Process

Scrub mussels with cold running water and remove any beards.

Put mussels and remaining ingredients in a pot, or a sheet pan with a lip, or wide baking dish and cover with lid or foil, so there’s a tight fit.

Put in hot oven for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour until shells open up.

Finish

Carefully remove from oven and remove foil, being aware of the steam. Transfer cooked mussels in their shells to a shallow bowl. Tilt pan enough so that you can spoon the sauce up and pour over the mussels in the bowl and serve.

Keep a small plate or bowl beside each person at the table for used shells.

Options

I served these with frites or french fries, but a loaf of crusty bread is a simple, practical and delicious accompaniment, and good for sopping up the sauce.

This recipe is fun to improvise with. Try other combinations of flavors that you might like. Some options could be:

Orange Fennel and Basil

  • Omit linguica and olives
  • 1 T orange zest
  • 2 C thinly sliced or diced fennel
  • 1/4 C chopped, fresh basil
  • 2 T chopped, fresh mint

Classic

Omit tomatoes, linguica and olives.

Greek Inspired

  • 1/2 C ouzo.
  • 2 T fresh, chopped oregano
  • 1/2 C diced, Greek loukaniko sausage
  • Garnish with crumbled feta cheese over top.

German Inspired

  • Omit tomatoes, olives, wine and linguica.
  • 1 C beer
  • 1/2 C diced bratwurst or other german sausage
  • 2 T spicy mustard
  • Garnish with fresh, thinly sliced scallion.
  • Serve with spätzle on the side. Shell all the mussels, and add warm spätzle to the bowl.

Fresh pappardelle, fennel sausage, spinach, kalamata, garlic, olive oil

Ingredients

  • 1 # sausage, crumbled
  • 1/2 red onion, minced
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 C chicken stock
  • 4 C fresh baby spinach
  • 1/4 C of kalamata olives
  • 2# fresh Paparadelle Pasta
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 3 T extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 C grated romano cheese
  • 1/4 C butter
  • pinch of red pepper flakes

Make Sauce

  • In a saucepan, saute sausage until cooked through.
  • add minced onion and saute until wilted, 2 minutes.
  • add garlic and saute until fragrant, 2 minutes.
  • add red pepper flakes, olives, salt, pepper and chicken stock, and bring to a simmer.
  • add spinach and toss until wilted.
  • taste and adjust seasoning to your liking.
  • turn off heat and set aside.

Bring Together

  • Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and add fresh pasta and cook until al dente or according to directions.
  • Drain pasta and in same pot, add butter and oil.
  • Put drained pasta back in pot with butter and oil and pour saucepan of sausage sauce over pasta. Sprinkle with romano and cover pot for 2 minutes, until butter and cheese is melted.
  • Remove lid and toss thoroughly but gently until pasta is coated with sauce.

Finish

Using tongs, drape pasta into warmed bowls, spooning extra sauce over top. Generously sprinkle with grated romano and serve.

Fennel crusted, lemon, grilled, pressed chicken

Wow.
Time Flies.
How do bloggers do it?

Ok. Where I live on the south shore of Massachusetts, we get nailed by these things called Nor’easters. Well, this last year, weather people started calling them “Bombogenesises”. Just another twist on the word “storm” with a terrifyingly scientific bent on it. Lets’ take the part of the bible, the book of Genesis, that shows how God supposedly created the world, and add the word “bomb” to it. Yay! Congrats Weather Channel, you just created another word that when mentioned, basically turns a trip to the grocery store to get some storm provisions into a peek at what a possible zombie apocalypse might look like. I’m surprised you didn’t go with “Revelations Cyclone”-maybe next year.

But I digress…

Anyhoo, stuck at home during this latest crazy nor’easter with the hyped-up-on steroids-name, we lost power, which living by the ocean typically accompanies these occasions. Luckily we have a gas range that is still functional when the power goes out. We have no way of calibrating the oven, but the stove top cranks. We also have this wonderful thing called a propane grill. Mine is not fancy but 100% used, loved, and battle scarred. I’m not one of these dudes that buys the most expensive, shiniest twelve-burner 6000BTU grills that money can buy just as a trophy, but then only uses it to cook hot dogs on it with his bros, while they drink Natty ice once a summer…

No man, screw that.

My grill is an unexceptional work-horse, three-burner, Weber, Spirit grill from Home depot. It un-glamorously sits in my asphalt driveway about three large steps from the mud room door that leads to my very modest kitchen. $600 bucks and some know-how, and that thing will not only feed a hungry neighborhood, but will take you through the most testosterone induced, grill fantasies you could ever imagine. I bolted a rotisserie to it, and slow-turn-roasted pork shoulders for hours set above heaping roasting pans of yukon gold potatoes, cooking the potatoes in the drippings; I’ve loaded it up with cast iron, hardwood chip boxes and smoked things for days on end; I have a stone that I throw on there, crank the heat up and fire off beautiful artisanal pizzas; In the summer when we’re lucky enough to get fresh lobsters, I’ve cut them in half and grilled them, shell-side-down, drowning in garlic butter; yet so much more. Heck, I could unapologetically brew coffee in a stock pot on that thing if I wanted too. Not bragging, just saying my grill is a work horse and I’m a firm believer that the more love you show it, by using it for what it’s meant to be used for, the more love it will return – tenfold.

Trophies are for grandma’s curio cabinet.

One of these many loves that my grill has returned to me was just this last weekend in the throws of of a powerless, cold, and scary few days, with few things to eat and no where to get groceries, a pizza or let alone gas for miles.

I had a chicken in my fridge and my fridge was thawing after losing power for three days, so I needed to cook it. I had fennel seeds, sea salt and olive oil aplenty, and a gas top range to toast these fennel seeds, to draw out their inherently savory, dusty, licorice flavor. I had to my horror, forgotten that I had given away my mortar and pestle to someone in need and was only left with a 25 year-old spice mill. but without power, for a moment my dreams were dashed. Crumpled and thrown up into the tempest that was literally tearing the limbs off of my quaint, picturesque, New England, seaside town.

But, desperate times do not only call for desperate measures, but they do also inspire strokes of genius! There’s a twelve volt outlet in the dash board of my inherited 2000 Pontiac Vibe. I used to scoff at that outlet, especially when we got our new SUV with the latest technology; Apple Drive, Bluetooth, Siri, a GPS with a touch screen, more USB ports than you could shake an iphone5s with a shattered touch screen at…

I say “used to” because wouldn’t you know it? That little 12 volt, two-pronged outlet gave my little 25 year-old spice mill the elixir of life that so many folks in my neck of the woods were longing for at that moment. A twist of the ignition key, a rumble of that little Toyota engine, and “zip zip zeeeeeuuuuuww“. I took off the lid, and in a beige puff of licorice scented, pulverized culinary heaven, not only did my going-on-twenty-something car interior suddenly smell like I had wandered into a spice vendor at a marché at St. Remy, in Provençe, but I suddenly had ground, toasted fennel seeds for my storm inspired chicken!

The rest is history.
And the recipe is below.

One whole, preferably naturally raised or organically raised chicken.
1/4 Cup fennel seeds
1/4 Cup extra virgin olive oil
One lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

Take ¼ Cup of fennel seeds and place in a small pan over moderately high heat and toast, tossing frequently until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Make sure you don’t let them get too dark.
Put toasted fennel into a spice mill or crush with a mortar and pestle until powdered.

Set aside.

Rinse and dry a whole chicken.

Flip the bird, breast side down and cut along the back bone with poultry shears preferably and remove the backbone.
Spread it open to reveal chest cavity.
Take the heel of a large chef’s knife and find the cartilage and bone between both breasts and press down firmly enough to cut through half of the cartilage. Flip bird back-side down and with your hands, as if you wer giving the chicken CPR, press down on the breast firmly. This will make the chicken able to splay out so that it will cook more consistently.

Line a large baking sheet or dish large enough to hold the whole chicken, with foil and put chicken on it. Rub chicken all over with extra virgin olive oil and generously season with sea salt and fresh black pepper on both sides of chicken. Rub ground, toasted fennel seeds all over chicken.

Heat grill to full whack (mine goes up to about 550 degrees)

When grill has heated thoroughly, take a wire brush and clean grill grates of debris. Then, bunch up a paper towel and put it in a stainless-steel bowl. Drizzle towel with vegetable oil and using tongs, oil the grill before placing the chicken on it.

Place chicken, breast side down in middle of grill, then lay a sheet of foil over chicken. Top chicken with heavy cast iron skillet if you have one, or a large brick. This will “press” or weight the chicken down and make it cook more evenly which in turn will make it moister and more succulent.

Cover grill and cook for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes, take cast-iron skillet and foil off of chicken. Take a metal spatula and tongs and slide spatula under chicken, being careful not to let chicken skin stick to the grill and tear away from chicken, as that’s what will be naturally basting the bird while it cooks. With the spatula under the bird, use your tongs to grasp it with your other hand and with one motion, flip the bird over to cook on its’ back side.
Place foil and cast -iron skillet back on top of bird.

Cover grill and cook 10 more minutes.

After ten minutes, take of weight again and flip bird over once more so the breast side is down. Put weight back on bird., close grill and cook for 10 more minutes.

The total cooking time at this point should be 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, open grill and check temperature with a thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh and breast. When thermometer reads 165 the chicken is done.

You might need to cook a few minutes more or it might be done, depending on the size of the chicken. If it needs to cook longer, make sure you put the weight back on top of the chicken, and closed the grill lid.

When chicken is done cooking, take weight off, remove from grill and put on a large platter and tent with a large piece of foil. The chicken will rest and the juices will naturally distribute throughout the bird as the meat relaxes.

After about 10 minutes the chicken is ready to serve. You can serve the chicken whole on the platter, or chop into large pieces with a heavy knife which helps with serving.

At this point cut a lemon in half and generously squeeze fresh lemon juice all over chicken, sprinkle with some fresh sea salt and serve, spooning the lemony pan drippings over top.

Savory, Sweet Corn, Potato, and Garlic Scape Hash, with Creme Fraiche

Hash 1

Ok, this might be a little late in the season, since scape season is so short and it takes a whole garlic bulb to make one scape, so it might be tricky to find them towards the end of June, but I got really inspired looking at my beautiful garlic scapes and was thinking outside of the box on this one, and wanted to share.

If you haven’t harvested your own garlic scapes, or if you can’t find them on the shelves anywhere, you could substitute green onions, or just leave the green stuff out all together.  Either way, this savory hash has a wonderful texture and mouth feel and goes really well as an accompaniment to something off the grill, but could also be a delicious breakfast hash with a few, perfectly, poached eggs on top, maybe drizzled with a little Hollandaise…

The texture of the sweet corn, slightly crisp, buttery potato, and earthy crunch of the scapes, is a wonderful combination.  Add to that a slight, tangy sweetness of balsamic vinegar and a velvety, emulsion of creme fraiche and you have a pretty stellar side dish, which almost upstages whatever protein you end up serving it with.

Savory, Sweet Corn, Potato, and Garlic Scape Hash, with Creme Fraiche

  • 8-10 Fingerling potatoes cut into bite-sized cubes.
  • 5-8 Garlic Scapes (or Scallions) cut into 1 inch lengths
  • 2 T butter
  • 1 fresh, raw, corn on the cob (using a knife, cut the corn from the cob)
  • 1/4 C minced red onion
  • 2 T Balsamic Vinegar
  • 1/4 C creme fraiche
  • 1T canola oil
  • Salt and pepper to taste

In a non-stick pan, melt butter until foaming, over medium high heat, swirl to coat bottom of pan.

Add diced potatoes and season with salt and pepper.  Leave cooking on one side until slightly browned and crisp, about 3-4 minutes.  Shake pan to loosen potatoes, toss and continue cooking until evenly browned and crisp all over.  Watch heat so as not to burn potatoes. To check doneness, pierce a larger piece of potato with the tip of a knife. The knife should feel little resistance and potato should fall off of knife when you pick it up.

When done to your liking, put potatoes onto a side dish or metal bowl and set aside.

In the same pan that you cooked the potatoes in, add the canola oil.  When hot, toss in red onion and cook until wilted.  Then add sweet corn and garlic scapes, or scallions. Season and toss until scapes turn bright green, begin to wilt, and corn kernels should also be wilted and slightly browned.

At this point, drizzle in balsamic vinegar and give the pan a few shakes to coat veggies.  Take off heat, and put potatoes back into pan.  Your pan should look like this:

Hash 2

For the finish, fold in creme fraiche until veggies are completely coated and creme fraiche is absorbed.  Check seasoning and serve.

Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse

Holy Cow!

Sorry it’s been a LOOOONG while since I’ve been able to post much.  Though I’ve been doing crazy amounts of cooking-the kids are growing and are much more active, as is my musical life, work and life in general this summer, so posting has not been easy, but the good news is I have a bunch of recipes lined up in the queue and some sort-of-downish time.

As the summer fades away, anticipating the harvest season gets very exciting, but summer ain’t over yet folks!

Here’s a great, easy recipe that I’ve put together for one of my favorite soups-Bouillabaisse!

Back in ’98 I got to travel to France, rented a car with some friends and drove all over the country-north, south, east and west-for 10 days, with not much of an itinerary except to go wherever the road took us and to sample all the regional cuisine we could handle. There were some winners of course, and some things that weren’t so great, but all in all I learned a lot about food and eating and it had a profound effect on not only the way I looked at food, but also how I purchase food.  After the whole Marché experience it was tough coming back and dealing with box stores.  Don’t get me wrong, I love going to big bright stores and shopping for groceries, but I got very accustomed to eating locally with local produce, meats, cheeses, even wines, and I think it made me a more humble, knowledgeable and appreciative consumer.  I also was living outside of Cleveland at the time and had access to the West Side Market which is one of the oldest European style market places in the country, which was a wonderful thing.

Long story short, one of the best dinners I had in France, (and there were many) was in Arles in Provence, and it was the classic provençale fish soup, Bouillabaise, complete with rouille.  It’s something about the exotic smelling saffron, cirtus infused floral-ness of it cooking, combined with the savoriness of garlicky, tomato-ey, fish stock, combined with the utter simplicity of it all.  So nourishing and healthy with only the freshest ingredients used.

Anyhoo…Here’s a recipe I’ve perfected to my tastes over the years.  I originally started with a recipe out of a book and tweaked it with other variations I’ve stumbled on over time to make it match my flavour profile.  So tweak as you wish.  The rouille isn’t necessary if you’re in a crunch, but really is a rustic, classic garnishment, that really makes it authentic.  Serve with crusty bread, or garlic toast.

Bouillabaisse with Rouille

Bouillabaisse

2# white fish such as Haddock, or any combination of shellfish and white fish.

1 Can San Marzano Tomatoes crushed by hand

1 Fennel Bulb, thinly sliced

3 C Mirepoix (Chopped Celery, carrots and onions)

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 Bouquet Garni (crushed bay leaf and thyme in a tea strainer)

2 inch slice of orange peel

1 pinch of saffron

¼ C extra virgin live oil

5 C chicken stock, or fish stock if you have it, or just H20.

s&p to taste

Pinch of red pepper flakes

Bunch of chopped parsley

Over high heat, in a large pot, sauté your mirepoix and fennel in olive oil until translucent, about five minutes and season with s&p.

Add garlic and sauté another 3 minutes.

Add tomatoes and sauté another 3 minutes.

Add stock, bouquet garni, orange peel, saffron, peeper flakes and season with s&p.

Bring to a low boil for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop fish and seafood.

If using shellfish, clean and sort and set aside.

Make Rouille.

 

Rouille

1 Egg yolk

juice of 1 Lemon

s&p

4 garlic cloves

1 chunk of rustic bread, crust removed

1 roasted pepper, skin, stem and seeds removed

½ C Extra virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine all ingredients except olive oil and pulse until pureed.

While machine is running, slowly drizzle in olive oil until emulsified as if making mayonnaise.

Add parsley and seafood to simmering broth and simmer until cooked through about 3 minutes.

Ladle soup into bowls and pass rouille with crusty bread.

Mushroom and Artichoke Flatbread with Fresh Basil, Sharp White Cheddar and Truffle Oil.

pizza2

Like most folks, I’m a huge pizza fan, and I like all kinds. Deep dish, or thin crust, Brooklyn style, hand tossed, pan pizza, grilled pizza, white pizza, home made pizza, Domino’s pizza, I really don’t discriminate. Sure I’ve had some awful pizzas in my day, being that much of a fan, but I’ve definitely had more winners than losers.  I do have a hands down, favorite pizza which is Luigi’s pizza in Akron, Ohio.  They have been making their “pizza pies’ since 1949.  There’s also this “pizza” type deal that I experienced on a trip to France back in ’97, in the Alsace region, called tarte flambé, which is basically a thin flatbread topped with creme fraiche, lardons of bacon and gruyere cheese cooked in a wood burning oven that induced a kind of out-of-body food experience for me. Completely different from Luigi’s “pizza pie” but equally as daydream inspiring, and drool inducing…

Anyhoo, I really enjoy making pizza at home, as I really love the meditative vibe I get into while making it, it’s also a pretty quick meal once you get the oven hot enough.  You also control everything that goes into it, but what’s best, is that there’s never any leftovers.  You can serve it as a fancy app at a dinner party, (as long as you have someone willing to play host and entertain guests as you’re rolling dough, and getting hot and messy), as a nice dinner, or best of all, a late night treat.

I’ve experimented with my own doughs and yadayadayada, which is cool, but to be honest, I just don’t have a lot of time to do that anymore, and frankly, Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s and my local supermarket, already make wonderful raw doughs that are every bit as good as mine.  I don;t have to make them a day in advance, there’s no additional mess, and no need for having starters taking up valuable real estate in my fridge overnight.

After constant experimentation over the years, this is one of my favorites, the Artichoke Mushroom flatbread.  I like to call it flatbread, because I think of pizza as being “Italian”, and this is definitely not your typical red sauce, pepperoni based pie.  It’s firm enough for the slices to hold their shape while eating, and the ingredients are atypical, but that’s my schpeel.  At the end of the day, my wife and kids will still call it “pizza“…

pizza3

Mushroom Artichoke Flatbread

1 package of fresh pizza dough, divided in half -(I use Trader Joe’s)

1 C marinated artichoke hearts, halved

1 C mushrooms, sliced  (I like shiitakes, but button, or any fresh mushroom would work)

10 pitted kalamata olives, halved

2 garlic cloves run through a garlic press

10 slices of sharp white cheddar

4T extra virgin olive oil

½ t dried oregano

¼ C Fresh basil chopped

¼ C feshly grated Romano cheese

dash of red pepper flakes (optional)

salt and pepper to taste

Truffle oil to taste

Cornmeal for dusting

Flour for rolling

  • With a baking stone placed on the middle rack of the oven, set oven at 500.  (If convection is an option use convection.)
  • Using a generous amount of flour and a rolling pin, roll out one half of the dough to desired thickness, or as thin as possible.  Set the other half aside.
  • Move dough to a wooden or metal peel dusted with cornmeal, and using the tines of a fork, dot the top of the dough generously to prevent air bubbles from occurring, avoiding the outer edge as to retain a crust.
  •  Drizzle olive oil and smear crushed garlic all over top of dough.  Season with salt and pepper, then layer 5 slices of cheese, trying to avoid overlaps.
  •  Add artichoke hearts, mushrooms, and kalamata olives, keeping in mind that less is more.  You don’t want to weigh down the dough with two many ingredients.  Scatter the toppings so that you could imagine, a few of each on each potential slice.
  •  Dust with dried oregano and red pepper flakes if using.
  • Using peel, carefully slide pizza onto hot baking stone, and bake for 7-8 minutes if using convection, 8-10 minutes if not, keeping an eye on it as not to burn, and rotating ½ way through for even cooking.
  •  Once pizza is golden brown on the edges and cheese is bubbling, remove from oven and immediately scatter basil over top and grate fresh romano.  Slice using a pizza cutter, transfer to a serving dish, and sparingly drizzle truffle oil over top and serve hot.
  • Repeat using the second half of the fresh dough.

Sunday Gravy

IMG_1314

I don’t have an ounce of Italian in me, and I’ve yet to go to Italy.  I’m a Hungarian/Polish/Texan hybrid, born and raised in the Midwest, so most of the Italian food I make I either learned from cookbooks or from Italian trained chefs cooking in Italian restaurants.  But the best Italian recipes I have in my arsenal I learned from Italian-American friends whose families graciously invited me to family meals of passed down regional recipes from their homeland and adapted them using American products and also to fit American tastes.  Another thing I love about Italians is the same thing I love about the North Africans, and the Poles and the Jews and Germans and the French and just about every person who’s culture I have been lucky enough to experience, by having been invited to share a meal with.  Some recent immigrants, some third, fourth and fifth generation immigrants, but what we all have in common is a love of family and traditional food, and sharing a meal together is something across the board that brings us back to the real world, no matter how dynamic or stressful our lives have become.  The pleasure of sitting around a table and sharing a meal is something passed down through the millennia but unfortunately it’s something few of us have time to do on a regular basis anymore, including myself, so I try to be aware of that and consciously set aside the time.  This recipe is one of those recipes that takes a good afternoon to make, and is a nice large amount that goes a long way, so it is perfect for getting everyone together.

Prior to my days of cooking professionally, I voraciously read cookbooks and invited myself over to relatives’ or friends’ houses for dinner, only to show up early and ask if I could watch how they prepared the meal.   Early on, my dad pulled a few strings and somehow got me into the kitchen of one of the exclusive restaurants in town to “observe” the chef, which introduced me to my first real kitchen experience.  The chef was gracious, passionate and hilarious.  I fell in love with not only the smells and tastes, but also the energy, the camaraderie, the testosterone, and of course the excitement in the air as everyone had their own job to do as they set to prepare for that evenings’ rush.  Needless to say I was hooked immediately.

Previous to my “observation” gig, I had an Italian American friend, and fellow musician, in Los Angeles who was a wonderful home cook.  He was a busy guy too, trying to hustle his way in the music business, but he had learned two of the most basic and salient of all Italian recipes, passed down through generations: pasta and sauce-or as he and his family so oddly referred to it as “Macaroni” and “Gravy”.  They actually called it Sunday Gravy because at their house, traditionally it was something that was made every Sunday, the one day when the whole family was guaranteed to sit down together for dinner.

Macaroni wasn’t the elbow stuff I’d grown up with that was solely used for “mac-and cheese”, it was in fact egg noodles, mixed by hand and run through a hand cranked pasta machine, which one needed a countertop with a nice lip on it as to be able to tighten up the clamp that held the machine in place.  He had one size to cut the noodles, which was angel hair, and it made the most beautiful pasta I’d ever had.  The Sunday gravy was a hearty red sauce simmered with pork chops (what?) that at the time seemed like it could feed an army.  The best part about this ordeal was that the recipe had a built-in timer that would determine when the meal would be ready: you made the sauce and while the sauce was cooking, you made the pasta, and once the pasta was done-the sauce was done and it was time to eat!  The second best part of the ordeal was the pork chops simmering in the sauce the whole time!

Here’s the recipe that’s very true to the original.  I use boneless pork ribs instead of bone-in pork chops, and I add a bit more garlic for a slightly more savory sauce. Also, the leftovers are perfect for freezing, and the sauce actually is great to have on hand for late night-post gig pasta meals.

Sunday Gravy

2, 28 oz cans on diced tomatoes in juice

2, 28 oz cans of sauce

1 small can of paste

2 pork chops bone in (or 1 package of boneless pork chops)

5 cloves of garlic sliced

1 onion chopped

¼ cup of parsley chopped

¼ C extra virgin olive oil

2 bay leaves

¼ C Romano cheese, grated for garnish

Salt and pepper to taste

To make the sauce, heat up olive oil in a large saucepan or pot.

  • Add garlic, onion and chopped parsley, season, and toss until garlic becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes.
  •  Add pork, season and toss with garlic and parsley, until seared on all sides.
  •  Add tomato product and stir until well combined.
  • Add bay leaves, season with salt and pepper, bring to a simmer and reduce heat to low for 45 minutes to an hour.

Once sauce is done, take out pork and put on a serving platter, grate fresh Romano cheese over top, and keep warm.

Also, grate fresh Romano cheese over the pot and let a thin veil melt on top of the sauce.

Serve family style by bringing the pot and pork to the table and let folks ladle sauce onto their own pasta plates.

Chicken in the style of “Perfetto”

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In Barberton, Ohio, on Manchester Road, right outside of Akron, there’s a little unassuming building with no windows adjacent to a tobacco shop. Driving by, one might not even notice, but it could be an old juke-joint, night club like the ones that still exist in the more depressed parts of town, or it could be an old shady bar that’s changed hands over the years, while still pedaling to the same neighborhood rubber-worker families, but it’s neither.  Inside is a fourth generation family owned and operated Italian restaurant called Casa Mimi, run by the Perfetto family and named after it’s founder “Mimi” Perfetto.  I practically grew up in this charming little piece of Barbertonian-Italian history as it was one of my parent’s favorite places to eat.  It was always the go-to place for first communions, bar mitzvahs, childhood birthdays, out of town guests, or just plain old Sunday suppers, when Mom didn’t feel like cooking and cleaning up the mess.  It’s not one of the trendy Italian eateries that we’ve all grown accustomed to, and the interior AND the menu has basically stayed the same since I can remember from going there as a kid in the 70’s-dark maroon drapes, dimly lit, some walls are mirrors made to look like reflective marble, and the focal point of the main dining room is an audacious landscape painting of Mt. Vesuvius that spans the length of the room.  In the corner is a faux-stone cherub fountain complete with plastic ivy leaves that seems to have been cycling water forever, but don’t let the gaudy, recent, red, white and green stripes on the exterior and outdated decor on the interior fool you-Love it or hate it, there’s some wonderful, timeless and filling, Italian food to enjoy at Casa Mimi’s.

The menu has basically stayed the same for the last 40 years, and there’s no need for it to change now.  The food here reminds me of the 70’s family run, neighborhood American-Italian eateries that used to be around way before all the homogenized Macaroni Grill and Olive Garden types took over with the strip malls and ruined not only our childhood landscapes, but our perception of American Italian food.  Walking into Casa Mimi is like walking back in time. It’s like walking into one of those old restaurants you see in a Mafia flick where some poor sap mafioso wanna-be has his last meal before getting whacked. The food here is unabashed, heavy and rich and the menu includes all of the classics you’d expect.  But there are some things that they have on the menu that are unique to this establishment.  One of them being their own marinated eggplant which is a secret recipe (I tried to get it a few times to no avail). Large chunks of squeaky, vinegary, garlicky eggplant, saturated in olive oil and dotted with red pepper flakes and dried oregano-pungent, spicy, savory and indulgent at the same time.  A perfect accompaniment for their crusty, broiled garlic bread, dusted with paprika.  But one of their signature dishes is a chicken dish called “Chicken Perfetto”.  A dish very reminiscent of Chicken Francese (which they also have on the menu) but this dish is different with the addition of mushrooms and a thicker, more viscous lemon sauce. If Casa Mimi has one thing going for them it’s consistency, which to me is more of a key to success than a lot of things that seem to have infiltrated the ideals of the restaurant world these days. The Chicken Perfetto is the exact same gloriously rich flavor profile of 3 generations ago, with it’s velvety lemon sauce, but I still haven’t been able to capture the exact magic at home.

So, if you can’t get to Barberton, this recipe is as close to the real thing as I’ve been able to get.

For the Chicken:

2 boneless, chicken breasts sliced in half lengthwise, and pounded out.

2 slices of white bread.

3 eggs

1/4 C milk

seasoned flour

# T grated romano cheese

Salt & Pepper to taste

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, salt and pepper and grated cheese together.

Dredge chicken in flour and dip into egg mixture.

Heat a sauté pan with Canola oil on medium high and sauté chicken on both sides until golden and just cooked through about 3 minutes per side.

drain on paper towels and set aside.

Do the same for the 2 slices of bread-basically making a savory French toast.

For the Sauce:

4 cloves garlic minced

1 C chicken stock

1/2 C white wine, plus another 1/2 C for deglazing

2T olive oil

3 T butter, plus 2T

3T flour

Mushrooms

Red pepper flakes

Salt & Pepper

3 dashes of Worcestershire

Juice of 2 lemons

1 lemon’s worth of zest

Heat a sauté pan over high heat and add olive oil, sauté mushrooms until they give off their moisture and that reduces, seasoning with salt and pepper.

Add 1/2 C wine and continue to cook until wine is absorbed, then set aside.

Melt 2T butter in a sauce pan and add the garlic and pepper flakes.  Sauté until the garlic becomes fragrant, then pour in the lemon juice and zest and reduce by half.

Once reduced, add the chicken stock, remaining 1/2 C of wine, Worcestershire, salt and pepper to taste and whisk.

Let this reduce slightly.

In a small pan, make a roux by melt the remaining 3T butter until foaming then add 3T flour and whisk until incorporated. cook for about 3 minutes and slowly add to the pan with the lemon sauce, whisking briskly.

Once all the roux has been incorporated turn heat down to medium and simmer for 3-5 minutes. The sauce should have a velvety consistency.

Add mushrooms and chicken to the lemon sauce pan and heat through.

Serve by placing a slice of the savory French toast on a plate, shingled by a chicken medallion  and spoon sauce over both generously.

Grilling in the rain

Grilling in the rain

There’s something very comforting about grilling in the rain.  It probably stems from being a little kid, watching my dad withstanding the elements in an overcoat, kitchen tongs in hand, working feverishly over a large open flame grill, his silhouette engulfed in a cloud of savory smoke, his ever present glass of cab placed precariously beside him, preparing the centerpiece of the family meal.  Us kids inside, cozy in the kitchen, watching mom working at an equally feverish pace, preparing the starches and vegetables, sautéing, roasting, whisking together a dressing, or composing a salad, cookbooks splayed out on the counter.

I guess I inherited that manly trait of my dad’s, to weather the storm and man the fire when it comes to dinner.  Grilling is one of my favorite ways of cooking.  Grilling during the summer is pretty much the cream-of-the-crop to most grill aficionados, but for me, as the days grow shorter, the idyllic notions of grilling become more persuasive. There’s something romantic about roughing the elements in order to put food on the table…maybe it comes from our ancestral past, the cave man cooking over an open flame, with one eye on the meal and one eye on the darkness beyond the campfire- both protector and provider.

Now I get it.  It’s the one time of day for a man to enjoy his solitude (and an adult beverage) and not feel guilty about it, and it doesn’t matter if it’s rain or shine.  No dinosaurs, predators or rogues to defend against anymore, but the trait has been passed down.  Just a man alone with his halcyon thoughts, the delectable hiss of the grill, the warmth of the flame, and a glass of IPA or a Napa cab close by.  Maybe the sounds of rain drizzling off the brim of my hat, or the velvety muffled silence of a fresh snow fall-either way, it’s all good.

Most days I man the grill and the sauté station as well, running inside to sauté garlic, or test the done-ness of vegetables, and refill an empty glass, then running back to the grill in time to flip my wares to acquire those alluringly delightful, aesthetically gratifying, (albeit unnecessary) perfectly, crosshatched grill marks, which is a continuous study in timing and preparation.  It all needs to come together at the precise moment and once it does, everything is right in the world.

Garlic

It doesn’t get much more basic than this, the old proverbial “meat-and-potatoes”, but somehow, it never does get old, and when life gets crazy and you need to come back to center and recharge both mentally and physically, grilling in the rain is some good medicine.

Steak

Grilled bone-in ribeye with worcestershire, garlic butter, garlicky spinach and baked potato.

The Wedge Salad with White French Dressing

Growing up in Akron, Ohio, this was a restaurant stalwart, a wedge cut of iceberg lettuce, garnished with bacon, bleu cheese, tomato and hard boiled egg, and finished with a velvety white French dressing; sweet, creamy and savory, all at the same time.  The Wedge salad with white French dressing oozes old school, mid-western, fine dining that has become a dying artform.  I’m definitely dating myself, but I’m old enough to remember that when I was a little rug-rat, dressed up in my Sunday best, I was able to witness the days of dark wood paneled dining rooms abuzz with restaurant pushcarts, commandeered by maître d‘s, refined looking master waiters in tuxes, going from table to table, flambéing Crepes Suzette, whisking worcestershire and dijon together in shiny, copper pans over open flames for Steak Diane, or efficiently emulsifying olive oil, anchovies and garlic with the tines of a fork-the basis for Caesar salad-in large, wooden salad bowls. At restaurants like D’Amico’s in Medina, Foley’s and the Diamond Grille (which is still open) on West Market, the Wine Merchant in the Valley, Iacomini’s on West Exchange, and Little Joe’s Pub and Lanning’s in Bath, the Wedge salad was a beautiful thing, as was the service and ambiance.  Some newer restaurants with a nod back to the old halcyon days have re-discovered and revamped the Wedge and brought it back to its former glory.  To me it is quintessential Northeastern Ohio eating: A large, chunk of iceberg lettuce, drizzled with the French inspired heavy, creamy dressing and all the garnishes.  The perfect salad to precede a steak dinner with a steaming baked potato-still in the jacket, accompanied by a pewter lazy susan with all the accoutrements.

The dressing used to be extra heavy, being made with mayo and sour cream, but this recipe has all the flavor and richness while a little lighter, as it’s made with an aioli base.

White French Dressing

1 egg
1 egg yolk
1.5 C canola oil
salt
pepper
1/4 yellow, Spanish onion, diced
3 T white vinegar
3T honey (or more to taste)

Splash of Tabasco

In a food processor, pulse the onion a few times, then add eggs, vinegar, s&p, and pulse until blended.
Then add the oil in a thin stream until emulsified.
Add honey and blend until incorporated, and a dash of Tabasco.

It definitely should have some sweetness to it, but also the bite of the onion.

I like to update the salad garnishes slightly different from the traditional way.  I use, diced crispy, pancetta, hard boiled egg, tomato and feta cheese crumbles in lieu of bleu.

It’s also a great vegetable dip and really awesome to dress a sandwich with.